| Equipment Configuration page 1 2 |
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Tanks
Argon
V weight
Regulators
Back Gas tanks must be manifold, with barrel o rings and
Stainless steel bands, to avoid extra hoses and allow
easier monitoring and failure response.
We use steel 12x12lt and 18x18lt and aluminium S080 11lt
as stage bottles with MOD markings and diver initials.
No burst disk valves and impact absorber rubber knobs
are preferred
Stainless steel bands, to avoid extra hoses and allow
easier monitoring and failure response.
We use steel 12x12lt and 18x18lt and aluminium S080 11lt
as stage bottles with MOD markings and diver initials.
No burst disk valves and impact absorber rubber knobs
are preferred
Aluminium Stage Bottles
best size is S080 11lt , Deco
bottles could be S040 5.5lt
for short dives
best size is S080 11lt , Deco
bottles could be S040 5.5lt
for short dives
V Weight
Tanks Setup
The most stream line way to ad weight to a diving rig is a
"V" weight .
You can melt normal lead weights to make one just put
a double aluminium paper between a set of tanks and
heat the lead in a pan poor and your are done.
4kgs is about the right amount to pump suit comfortable,
drill a hole to allow trim play
"V" weight .
You can melt normal lead weights to make one just put
a double aluminium paper between a set of tanks and
heat the lead in a pan poor and your are done.
4kgs is about the right amount to pump suit comfortable,
drill a hole to allow trim play
Argon is a must on trimix dives and could be nice in
long cold dives. The right size bottle is a 13ft3 (1.8lt)
and should be tank mounted with webbing straps to
allow to be remove if need during the dive. They now
making a thinner and longer 3lt steel bottle too !
Argon bottle valve must be out of the way and off the
dump valve . Upside down allow manipulation during a
dive.
Smaller bottles are not suitable for serious cave diving,
specially fill at low pressure.
Notice the difference in
Hose connection for dry suits
long cold dives. The right size bottle is a 13ft3 (1.8lt)
and should be tank mounted with webbing straps to
allow to be remove if need during the dive. They now
making a thinner and longer 3lt steel bottle too !
Argon bottle valve must be out of the way and off the
dump valve . Upside down allow manipulation during a
dive.
Smaller bottles are not suitable for serious cave diving,
specially fill at low pressure.
Notice the difference in
Hose connection for dry suits
Click on pictures to enlarge
V weight Setup
Back up Lights
Back Mounted tanks regulators set up
must include 2 balanced First stages
with a balanced second stage each, a LP
inflator hose and a Pressure gauge.
Hoses should be standard 3/8.
Hose routing must leave free the access
to the valve operation, while avoiding
been exposed to the overhead. Hose
protectors are not desirable as hide
hose ruptures that may failed during the
dive.
DIN connectors are preferred as they
reduce volume of valve connection and
"o" ring leakage due to leverage upon
yoke clam impact with overhead.
Right post first stage must include the
"Long hose" at least 2mt and custom
length LP hose for wing inflation.
Long hose must be outside and LP
inside to avoid hose kinking while
sharing gas.
To minimize bulk
LP Wing inflator hose
must be secure with
hose tubing to corrugated
hose and shock cord to
backplate
Left Post first stage include the "Back up
reg" hose with necklace and a High
Pressure hose with a Submersible
Pressure Gauge (SPG), both hoses
custom length. Extra LP can be mounted
on nitrox-drysuit diving.
Argon reg must have a Over pressure
Valve (OPV)
It is highly recommended that argon and
bottom gas first stages are diaphragm,
also called membrane.
Safety and Deco bottles should wear
Balanced Piston first stages.
Anyway all Second stages must be
balanced
To avoid hose entanglement, damage
and facilitate location, with exception of
the back up regulator, wing and dry suit
hoses, ALL hoses must have a bolt snap
attached with line, to allow a "break
away" while cut with knife blade, should
not break with a pull.
Bigger Bolt snap are best with heavy
gloves in cold water and stainless steel
ones need no maintenance.
A plastic wire-tie helps avoiding the bolt
snap sliding down the hose and defeat
the purpose of clipping.
Reg first stage should be
cover when not in use
with din plugs, minding
dust and loosing "o" ring.
must include 2 balanced First stages
with a balanced second stage each, a LP
inflator hose and a Pressure gauge.
Hoses should be standard 3/8.
Hose routing must leave free the access
to the valve operation, while avoiding
been exposed to the overhead. Hose
protectors are not desirable as hide
hose ruptures that may failed during the
dive.
DIN connectors are preferred as they
reduce volume of valve connection and
"o" ring leakage due to leverage upon
yoke clam impact with overhead.
Right post first stage must include the
"Long hose" at least 2mt and custom
length LP hose for wing inflation.
Long hose must be outside and LP
inside to avoid hose kinking while
sharing gas.
To minimize bulk
LP Wing inflator hose
must be secure with
hose tubing to corrugated
hose and shock cord to
backplate
Left Post first stage include the "Back up
reg" hose with necklace and a High
Pressure hose with a Submersible
Pressure Gauge (SPG), both hoses
custom length. Extra LP can be mounted
on nitrox-drysuit diving.
Argon reg must have a Over pressure
Valve (OPV)
It is highly recommended that argon and
bottom gas first stages are diaphragm,
also called membrane.
Safety and Deco bottles should wear
Balanced Piston first stages.
Anyway all Second stages must be
balanced
To avoid hose entanglement, damage
and facilitate location, with exception of
the back up regulator, wing and dry suit
hoses, ALL hoses must have a bolt snap
attached with line, to allow a "break
away" while cut with knife blade, should
not break with a pull.
Bigger Bolt snap are best with heavy
gloves in cold water and stainless steel
ones need no maintenance.
A plastic wire-tie helps avoiding the bolt
snap sliding down the hose and defeat
the purpose of clipping.
Reg first stage should be
cover when not in use
with din plugs, minding
dust and loosing "o" ring.
Nitrox diving hose routing
Left post routing, back up
reg hose goes under
corrugated hose, dry suit
hose goes in the out side
of port, all above the wing
reg hose goes under
corrugated hose, dry suit
hose goes in the out side
of port, all above the wing
Trimix diving hose routing
Argon reg w/ OPV
Balanced second stages
Diaphragm on
stage
stage
Balanced Piston on safety
Bolt snap on hoses
Necklace attachment
Long hose on outside port
SPG attachment
Free access valve knobs,
protected hose routing
protected hose routing
21 /18 Watt HID/ 50 watt Halogen, shown
are Brightstar, W. Allen and Osram.
Brightstar bulb is stronger and like
halogen does not need a 5 second ballast
reset time to re-start as W Allen HID.
LED light and Halogen bulbs does not
require a Bulky Ballast
At left equivalent power Led and HID 18W
notice how bulky hid ballast is, besides
LED provides twice as much burntime.
are Brightstar, W. Allen and Osram.
Brightstar bulb is stronger and like
halogen does not need a 5 second ballast
reset time to re-start as W Allen HID.
LED light and Halogen bulbs does not
require a Bulky Ballast
At left equivalent power Led and HID 18W
notice how bulky hid ballast is, besides
LED provides twice as much burntime.
Once your P. Light gives up you will head out on
your back up Light. Back up lights must be very
reliable and the least amount of flooding and
failure points are desirable.
One piece "Twist on" lights are the most common,
several types with clear and rubber protected bulb
covers. Make sure you choose a higher voltage
bulb versus batteries voltage to avoid bulb failure.
Minimum should be 6 watt and usually 4.5 volt
batteries, in any case batteries must be non
rechargeable and provide around 5 hr burn time.
Later LED and HID technology provide bulbs with
as much as 50watt halogen equivalents with 10hr
burn time which is amazing.
Attach a bolt snap to Light body to securely carry
them through the dive
Back up P. Light head will also allow you to
continue a dive in the case of P. Light failure
your back up Light. Back up lights must be very
reliable and the least amount of flooding and
failure points are desirable.
One piece "Twist on" lights are the most common,
several types with clear and rubber protected bulb
covers. Make sure you choose a higher voltage
bulb versus batteries voltage to avoid bulb failure.
Minimum should be 6 watt and usually 4.5 volt
batteries, in any case batteries must be non
rechargeable and provide around 5 hr burn time.
Later LED and HID technology provide bulbs with
as much as 50watt halogen equivalents with 10hr
burn time which is amazing.
Attach a bolt snap to Light body to securely carry
them through the dive
Back up P. Light head will also allow you to
continue a dive in the case of P. Light failure
Various Back up lights
Back up 18watt HID P. Light
with EO cord & Bulb protector
with EO cord & Bulb protector
Groove for Gloves grip
A primary Light iluminates the way through your
overhead environment adventures and also provide
passive communication while keeping team together.
Primary light traditionally will burn as long as you
have gas, as you don't what to loose your light when
you are late on the exit. Traditionally a P. Light
minimum will burn 180 minutes with 50 watt halogen
light and 14 amp (2 x 7amp), 12volt rechargeable
Lead (Pb) Acid batteries. So If you dive more than 3hr
or low viz you will need a HID or LED head.
Halogen was replaced by HID lights use 18, 21, 35
watt HID bulbs with equivalent well over 100watt
halogen. They required a bulky ballast but increase
the burn time of batteries for as much as twice the
time. LED is the latest smallest head.
NiMH batteries technology provide more burn time in
a third the size of Lead Pb , however is more difficult
to charge and therefore unpredictable.
Lithium Batteries are smaller, reliable and long burn
times.
I use 10 and 20 amp Lithium canisters with 9 watt
Led for around 7-15hrhr burn time, enough for most
dives.
overhead environment adventures and also provide
passive communication while keeping team together.
Primary light traditionally will burn as long as you
have gas, as you don't what to loose your light when
you are late on the exit. Traditionally a P. Light
minimum will burn 180 minutes with 50 watt halogen
light and 14 amp (2 x 7amp), 12volt rechargeable
Lead (Pb) Acid batteries. So If you dive more than 3hr
or low viz you will need a HID or LED head.
Halogen was replaced by HID lights use 18, 21, 35
watt HID bulbs with equivalent well over 100watt
halogen. They required a bulky ballast but increase
the burn time of batteries for as much as twice the
time. LED is the latest smallest head.
NiMH batteries technology provide more burn time in
a third the size of Lead Pb , however is more difficult
to charge and therefore unpredictable.
Lithium Batteries are smaller, reliable and long burn
times.
I use 10 and 20 amp Lithium canisters with 9 watt
Led for around 7-15hrhr burn time, enough for most
dives.
Bolt snap attachment
Indestructible one piece
delrin pack with EO cord
undewater pluggable
delrin pack with EO cord
undewater pluggable
Bulb reflector, protector and
handle with back up
storage attachment point
handle with back up
storage attachment point
Primary Lights
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Click on pictures to enlarge
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